Salted caramel almost-anything is very delicious, and Lindt is my favourite chocolate available here, so imagine my mixed emotions when I found that I could buy a bar made up of eight generous, melty squares of this stuff, but only on condition that I parade a revoltingly twee package through the aisles of Carrefour. Don't talk to me, chocolate, don't even greet me. Especially not in the tone of a coy baby. Luckily the most nauseating crap - "I'll make your tummy yummy", in a deliberately imperfect rectangular speech bubble - is on the inside of the wrapper and can therefore be swiftly discarded in the privacy of your home. The chocolate is worth it, if a touch undersalted, but if you really can't stomach the "nice to sweet you" - and it certainly makes me want to crush a Kinder Egg - then try the Touch Of Sea Salt, also by Lindt. Not as creamy, but it has the advantage of being a more grown-up dark chocolate, and not having been scrawled on by some dead-eyed Creative cynically retching up whimsy in an infantile font.